This group needs no further introduction to most.

Chances are you’ve heard about them in one way or another. You may have seen their old photos circulating online, read scans of old magazines, or even played video games inspired by the group. Needless to say they are one of the most popular automotive groups in the world. You might even say that they are the most popular group to date.

Despite their fame, not a lot of people really know them at all. In particular, there’s not a lot of information about the group itself, its members, and it’s racing history. Their accolades are shrouded by mystery, with most information coming across as bordering fiction. You might have been told by a friend or read on Wikipedia that they disbanded around the late 90’s or early 2000’s. But, if there’s anything our teachers in high school taught us, it’s that Wikipedia is never a good source of information.

In this case, Wikipedia has been nothing short a lie. ‘Mid Night’ did not disband, nor did the group “die” as most people (and Wikipedia) claim nearly 20 years ago. In fact, the club is very much alive to this day. You might even chance upon them meeting up at famous parking areas on the highways, or on the expressways of Tokyo. Otherwise, we wouldn’t be sharing this with you guys at all right now.

Meeting up with the Mid Night Racing Team was a near-impossible task. Even to this day, most of the members keep a very low profile. However, thanks to the help of Kenneth, one of the select few non-Japanese people who are close to the group, together with Albo and the rest of The Hvnters crew, we managed to arrange a meeting with some members of the MNC last October.

Seeing the cars (some of which were even featured in magazines before) lined up at the parking area and meeting the members in person was a once in a lifetime opportunity. It’s hard to describe seeing the ‘Mid Night’ cars, cars which used to only be in front of computer screens and magazines, now live in person in all their battle-worn glory. The cars along with their owners have a different with aura to them; unlike any I’ve encountered before. This is especially true for cars wearing the “Mid Night” banner and stickers proudly. However, it was the experience of doing a run down the Wangan which was the crème de la crème of the meet. For that, we are forever grateful to Ogisu-san, who agreed to meet up with us and brought along other members and The Hvnters for letting us tag along with them.

Aside from the cars, however, we had the opportunity to learn a bit more about the group coming from the members themselves. One of the reasons why we decided to reach out to “Mid Night” was to know more about them – call it a ‘meet your heroes’ kind of thing. Since we do live outside of Japan, there’s hardly any information about “Mid Night”. As mentioned earlier, most of the information we know about comes from the internet and Wikipedia. Unfortunately, most of these are also inaccurate apart from a few translated magazine clippings featuring the club. Despite the language barrier, we managed to pick up new info which helped us get a better understanding of them.

Members still hold the ‘Mid Night’ name in very high regard, and is essentially their legacy. As such, they extremely disapprove of non-members and imposters putting fake banner and stickers on their cars. So if you plan on buying fake stickers, just don’t do it; even if it is meant to be a tribute. Instead, it will look as if you’re tarnishing the ‘Mid Night’ name.

Street63, together with The Hvnters, hopes to correct the disinformation about Mid Night that has become somewhat ‘stock knowledge’ to most. At the same time, we hope to be able to follow their story more as Mid Night begins a new chapter. It won’t be easy considering we live 5-hours away from Tokyo, but we promise to do our best.

We would like to thank Tamura kaicho, Ogisu-san, and the rest Mid Night Racing Team for the opportunity to meet up, letting us take photos, learn more about the team, and the friendship established. Thank you to The Hvnters as well, namely Albo, Kenneth, Ken, Stan, and Dasun for the very welcoming experience. We hope to see all of you in Tokyo very soon. どうもありがとうございます!

Words and Photos by Jose Altoveros

We can’t stress enough the similarities of how cars function to the way the human body does. They both need periodic maintenance, they both have joints and underpinnings that need regular exercise, and they both operate thanks to a variety of fluids. That last bit is especially relatable, as cars need various kinds of oil, fuel, water, grease, hydraulic fluids, and a bunch of other liquids to get it working properly. With a variety of moving parts in your car’s engine and powertrain, these parts would be grinding metal-to-metal if not for the lubricants that keep them moving. It takes a certain amount of know-how to identify which kinds of oils go where in the complex machine that is the automobile – and this is a science that our friends at Motul Philippines have specialized in.

Every vehicle (much like every body) has very specific manufacturer requirements for the fluids they use, just like a doctor who would prescribe your vitamins or maintenance meds to avoid certain side effects your body might react to. Plenty of R&D have gone into making our lives convenient through fast transportation, which means we have to pay equal attention to the quality of fluids we put into them. This then means we need to follow these manufacturer specifications to keep things running properly, and Motul is here to help.

To get familiar with the way they can cater to every single vehicle, Motul Philippines sent us a box full of all the oils and pertinent automotive fluids they offer. Each oil varies in terms of viscosity, manufacturer standard, use for gasoline and diesel motors, and a bunch of other technical details that gear a certain oil towards a certain car. In the interest of keeping things simple though, we will do our best to explain the differences of these fluids in a way that we can distinguish how to use them. Let’s begin:

ENGINE OIL

Motul 300V

When you see all those racecars fielding Motul as their choice of oil, chances are the oil that powers them is the 300V. Proven to take high operating temperatures with good tolerance against lowering viscosity thanks to heat, the 300V series of synthetic oils ensures that your engine gets the proper lubrication it needs even during high stress/high load conditions. Motul 300V utilizes Ester Core technology that gives this specific lubricant properties that make it attracted to metal surfaces – thereby ensuring all internal surfaces of your engine is coated with a film of oil. This is the oil to go for when you expect your vehicle to see some track time or have generally high performance use. Consult your builder/mechanic for proper viscosity recommendations for your application.

Motul 8100/6100 series

The Motul 8100/6100 series are Motul’s answers to highly specific OEM requirements by various car manufacturers around the world. These series of oils are meant to meet the standards of highly meticulous manufacturers and prove to be a good alternative to the usual oils recommended by your local dealer. Each specific oil in this lineup caters to a certain standard for specific vehicles, so it would be best to verify which oil would suit your car best. Check your service manual or research and consult with your local Motul dealer for the most appropriate oil for your application.

Motul H-Tech

The Motul H-Tech is the bread and butter fully synthetic oil that can be applied towards a wide variety of vehicles. Your daily passenger car would best benefit from this fully synthetic range considering its lengthy service life and relatively competitive price for a synthetic oil. H-Tech is available in a wide range of viscosities to suit your use, again consult with your service manual or a trusted mechanic for proper viscosity recommendations for your motor.

Motul CRDi

Motul’s CRDi oils are meant to work with most Common Rail Direct Injection (CRDi) systems found in most modern diesel engines. By having an oil that allows optimization of CRDi, diesel vehicles will retain their high-torque low rpm characteristics through the use of this oil with religious maintenance.

Motul TRD

Motul works in collaboration with Toyota Racing Development (TRD) to produce a specific range of high performance lubricants that can be used with Toyota vehicles. Should your Toyota see some high stress use or demand more than your usual A-to-B, it’s best to consider Motul’s Toyota-specific oil for your application.

Motul Multipower

The Motul Multipower is Motul’s semi-synthetic offering (dubbed Technosynthese®) that combines synthetic oils with mineral base stock to make for a competitively priced lubricant that is priced relatively lower than their fully synthetic offerings.

Motul Multigrade

Multigrade is Motul’s base mineral oil that’s been processed by refining crude oil. Mineral oils are processed differently from synthetic oils in that they are still crude oil with impurities removed versus modern day synthetic oils that have undergone chemical reactions and have been specifically engineered to take high heat conditions.

Motul Tekma Mega

Motul Tekma Mega is the semi-synthetic industrial-use lubricant for large trucks and heavy duty vehicles. This diesel motor oil is geared towards fleet use where varying ranges of new and old heavy duty motors will be utilized.

TRANSMISSION AND DIFFERENTIAL OILS

TRD Gear Oil

Alongside motor oil, TRD also offers a specific transmission gear oil to be used with Toyotas equipped with manual transmissions. Set to meet and exceed Toyota’s standards for their transmission oils, the TRD Gear Oil ensures slick engagement of gears and proper length of service life – provided of course the driver knows how to properly drive stick.

ATF 1A

The ATF 1A is Motul’s formulation that works best with most Japanese automatic transmission that have a slip lockup clutch. These work best with conventional automatic transmissions as well as those with modern electronic controls.

ATF VI

The ATF VI is specifically formulated for automatic transmissions that require DEXRON VI specification fluid. These are usually for select American and European vehicles, consult your service manual or a professional for the appropriate fluid for your automatic transmission.

Multi Lineup

Motul’s Multi ATF/CVT/DCT fluid lineup is tailored to meet the specific requirements of manufacturers for transmission-grade oils (i.e. GM DEXRON-III). This is usually the go-to for most automatic vehicles considering these transmissions can only operate with a specific standard of fluid.

Motul Gear and Differential Oil

Motul also has their own line of gear and differential fluids to round up the lubrication of the rest of your vehicle’s powertrain. Apart from the usual 75w-90 viscosity fluid they have a range of specialized products that are geared toward specific applications for high performance use. Consult with your mechanic and local Motul dealer for proper recommendations.

BRAKE FLUID

TRD DOT 4

TRD also offers a specific brake fluid for your high performance Toyota applications. Meant to work with standard brake lines as well as withstand higher than normal operating temperatures, the TRD DOT 4 brake fluid makes for a good option to compliment a brake pad upgrade.

Motul RBF

The RBF series is the top-of-the-line brake fluid you can get from Motul. Engineered to have a higher boiling point, maintain pedal feel, and reduce the effects of brake fade, the RBF makes for a viable choice of fluid when your vehicle sees regular track time with an upgraded brake system. (pads, lines, bigger master cylinders, etc.) Seeing as this is essentially race-spec brake fluid, service intervals may be more frequent versus conventional street-spec brake fluids.

Motul DOT 5.1

The Motul DOT 5.1 is oriented as a street application fluid with a higher boiling point versus your conventional DOT 3 or 4. This slots in between the RBF series and their standard brake fluid and would make a solid choice of fluid for modified vehicles that seldom see track use but have upgraded brake systems.

Motul DOT 3 & 4

Motul has the basic DOT 3 and 4 offerings that most passenger vehicles require to operate a hydraulic braking system. Provided your system is properly bled and serviced, the Motul DOT 3 and 4 fluids should provide a surefooted feel towards your brake pedal and give you confidence in your vehicle’s stopping power.

MISCELLANEOUS

Diesel System Clean

This diesel-specific additive is a good way to remove carbon deposits and soot throughout your fuel system and combustion chamber. From the fuel tank, lines, injectors, and towards the combustion chamber as diesel is consumed, the Diesel System Clean removes any unwated deposits as you burn your fuel.

Mo Cool

The Mo Cool is a radiator additive (regardless of running with coolant or straight water) that helps bring down the overall temperature of your fluid in the cooling system by about 15 degrees celsius by improving heat transfer properties of the fluid in your system. The additive in this bottle is concentrated and should be mixed at a 5% ratio to your total volume of fluid in the system.

Multi HF

The Multi HF is a hydraulic fluid that can be used for various suspension, steering, and other vehicle systems that require the use of hydraulic fluid.

These are all the fluids you may possibly need to keep your vehicle going and in good working order. Should you wish to find out more, get in touch with Motul Philippines for any further queries about all their products.

Words by Aurick Go

Photos by Jaime Miguel Echavez,Jose Altoveros

What happens when you combine German engineering with the ‘roughness’ of a Japanese legend? You get something like this.

This is RWB Hikaru, Nakai-San’s 10th creation under Rauh Welt Begriff Manila. Back in December I had the opportunity to shoot this car for a couple of days. Prior to that, the closest encounter I’ve had with an RWB was seeing them casually parked at local car meets. The fact that I was able to get in one and drive it around Metro Manila streets was an experience on its own though.

I chose to shoot this particular RWB for a number of reasons, the biggest reason being the fact that I’ve seen this car’s evolution from stock form to what it is today. Unfortunately, we have no photos of it before the transformation – but it’s safe to say it was rather tame compared to this.

Like any other RWB, it starts out as a Porsche Carrera until Nakai-San and Car Porn Racing Manila work their magic to affix the new panels. The stock fenders get cut, wheels and suspension replaced, brakes upgraded, and some interior details were added. Some Porsche purists may not be a fan of this and even consider it sacrilegious, but in the company of other exquisite cars in the owner’s collection, this Porsche ought to have something to make it stand out.

To say that this car is “wide” is an understatement. The moment I rolled out of the shop, I instantly knew that taking this to the location of the shoot was going to be a challenge. There was something about the way the 265 and 335 cross section tires make you feel the road through the steering wheel. The Philippines isn’t really known for having the best driving roads in the world, so driving a car this close to the ground also kept me on the edge. Who would want to damage a bodykit that costs more than a normal car in the first place?

Luckily, RWB Hikaru was equipped with an Accuair suspension management system. The suspension had 3 preset heights to choose from – slammed, driving height, and fully lifted. Changing through these presets were quick and easy to access through the remote inside the cabin. Thanks to this piece, going through speed bumps with this car became a lot less terrifying.

StopTech brakes were also installed to complement these 18-inch Work wheels.

With all the changes to the exterior of the car, I am impressed with how the interior kept up with the car’s radical styling. The standard door sidings were replaced with leather door cards, and they even changed the door handle to a door strap. Rennline flooring and footrests were also installed for a much sportier feel. Supposedly a pair of Recaro buckets were to go into the cabin, but it appears the owner left the seats stock for now.

Since it was my first time to closely look at an RWB, I noticed some small details that really completed the look of the car. There was a Rauh Welt Manila logo on the Momo steering wheel, and there was an RWB logo on the ignition as well. But perhaps my favorite detail among them all were the laser etched Rauh Welt Begriff logos on the barrels of the wheels.

To top it all off, Nakai-San signed the dashboard indicating the number of this particular car.

The exterior and interior of RWB Hikaru aside, the best thing about this car is the experience of driving and owning one. Being able to drive a Porsche that wide and close to the ground was definitely something new for me. I was also able to experience first-hand how much attention this car gets while driving around. The current owners of these cars must be used to people staring and taking pictures of their car when driving around the busy streets of Manila.

I personally think that this is a type of car that does not seek the fastest lap times, but presents the driver with an experience like no other. This was a car I never expected to drive in my lifetime, so I am grateful to the owner, Emmanuel Santos, and David Feliciano of DMFDrift for this experience.

The current (and future) owners of these RWBs not only have a car that is guaranteed to turn heads in the street, but the story and novelty of owning one truly makes it one great conversation piece.

Words and Photos by Jaime Miguel Echavez

Porsche Carrera 993 – RWB Hikaru

Engine

• 3.6L M64
• Air-cooled
• Naturally aspirated

Drivetrain

• 4-Speed automatic transmission

Exterior

• RWB front bumper
• RWB front chin
• RWB cannards
• RWB side skirt
• RWB fenders (front and rear)
• RWB Wing

Interior

• Rennline aluminum floor board
• Rennline passenger floor board
• Rennline aluminum pedal set
• Track Mat driver and passenger side
• Momo Prototipo
• Custom leather door cards

Wheels/Suspension/Brakes

• Work Wheels Meister M1 3pc (MGM Center/Bronze Lip/ Gold Studs) 18×10.5” front/ 18×13” rear
• Kumho Ecsta V700 265/35/18 front and 335/30/18 rear
• Airrex Digital Air Suspension struts + AccuAir E Level management
• StopTech big brake kit

*This is the first car I’ve ever driven that I felt was “mine”, the W140 S320 Long Wheel Base.

Actually, this was my grandfather’s but then he handed the keys over to me because it was too low for him to enter without having a hard time. Being a young adult who was handed over a set of keys to a fancy Mercedes S-class, I took it on an impulse. I took it to Legends meets, out of town drives, and everything an immature young adult could do with a land yacht. Over the past few months though it felt like driving the W140 was more of a chore rather than something I passionately enjoyed. The car felt great (Mercedes is the best luxury car brand after all) but something was missing; It literally felt as if I was driving from Point A to Point B in a fancy vehicle with no driver involvement. Don’t get me wrong, I still love the S-class but I can’t see myself enjoying it as much as driving a car with sporting intent.

When I first heard of the 86, I was never a fan of it. Partly due to its power (or lack thereof) and the associated stereotypes of people driving the 86 (egoistic, arrogant, and prideful kids), taking ownership of the car didn’t really paint a decent picture. Over the past few years though, I learned to look beyond those factors and appreciate the car itself. The 86 is slow (hell, even Jeremy Clarkson was reading a book while drifting an 86) and I’ll accept that, but the “fun-factor” of driving the car makes you forget about all the trivialities that come with power. For a car enthusiast whose family loves SUV’s and luxury cars, the 86 is worlds away in terms of performance. A true drivers’ car with a competitive price point.

One aspect that makes the Toyota 86 appealing is the potential for creativity on this platform is absolutely infinite – there is effectively no limit to one’s creativity. The 86 is absolutely fantastic if you’re an avid car enthusiast; a car that acts as a blank canvas waiting for the artist’s wildest imagination. From bolt-on modifications all the way to out-of-this-world builds like Ryan Tuerck’s GT4586 drift car to rally modified 86’s, this platform can do it all.

As funny as this sounds, I’d compare the 86 to Eevee (yes, the Pokemon). Okay, hear me out here: Eevee is a “normal type” pokemon when you catch it at first, but then when you acquire evolution stones that’s when you get to choose what type of Pokemon Eevee is: whether that be electric, water, fire, and so on and so forth. Now for the 86, with the different types of scenes, disciplines, and the variety of parts that are offered we have those “evolution stones” to decide what type of build or direction you want to pursue with the car.

I took ownership of this particular 86 on June 7, 2020. This is a bone-stock, 2014 model with approximately 25k kilometers on the clock. It’s pretty well-kept, however, there are small cosmetic damages that bother me. At least they are easily repairable. The car is really well-maintained considering the previous owner was an elderly gentleman. Besides all that, this car is a dream to drive. I’ve never driven a car that could corner so well since I grew up surrounded by Land Cruisers and luxury sedans. The 86 in the garage sticks out like a sore thumb (it just doesn’t fit in), but this car reminds me of why I fell in love with cars in the first place, so it being different with the rest of the lineup doesn’t bother me.

As someone who entered the car scene with little experience and knowledge, I want to keep things simple: a set of coil-overs, wider wheels & tires, an ECU remap (torque dip elimination), and a full exhaust system. As a daily driver, I want my 86 to be the “one car to do it all.”

After a lot of time thinking about deciding which car to buy and consultation with more experienced car enthusiasts, I believe it’s safe to say this car is perfect for me. It may not be the newest model nor have some semblance legendary status, but this car never fails to amaze me. After almost 3 weeks of ownership, I have to say there’s a lot to learn about the car and I believe that this would make for a good companion as I try learn valuable lessons about being a well-rounded car enthusiast.

Special thanks to my family for giving me the opportunity to own such a car and my friends for giving me the proper guidance and advice on how to take care of my new machine. Here’s to hoping this car turns out to be a cool build!

Words and Photos by Jakob Go

We often take for granted what goes into some of our frequently used products in life. Be it our food, health products, or random consumables, we always tend to forget all the research and development that took to get those products into our households. For cars it’s pretty much the same thing, we all but forget the century-long technological revolution that took place to be able to give us faster propulsion to cover more ground in a shorter amount of time. One of the cornerstones of the internal combustion engine is the oil that keeps its metal parts lubricated – and often we care less about the oil that goes into the motor once it’s flushed in there and out of sight.

If you’re keen on prolonging your motor’s service life – be it modified or not – it pays to pay attention to finer details; Like say, the kind of oil that goes into your car. These days you will often find that some oils have stronger marketing than they do actual performance, so it’s best to really double and triple check what oil will work for your vehicle. Thankfully we have the folks from Autoplus Sports Center and Motul Philippines to talk us through some of these ‘marketing spiels’ or ‘misconceptions’ that the average consumer might fall for:

1. “Fully Synthetic” vs “100% Synthetic”

Synthetic oils are a relatively new technological advancement in terms of lubrication. Higher thermal stability, doesn’t break down as quick as conventional mineral oil, and retains its viscosity for longer work cycles. It is effectively advantageous by almost all counts aside from being more expensive, yet there’s no question that it would work for your vehicle.

See, normally you would think the two terms above would be understood as “the contents of the bottle being all comprised of synthetic oils” but what goes on behind the scenes would state otherwise. Apparently, western advertising policies allow the oil to be called ‘Fully Synthetic’ once the oil in question reaches 70% synthetic content. Therein lies the difference of some oils being cheaper despite still being called ‘Fully Synthetic’; It’s because there’s still a percentage of it that’s made up of mineral oil.

According to Motul Philippines, here’s the basic rundown of oil nomenclature relative to percentages of actually being synthetic:

Synthetic Oil: 50% comprised of synthetic material

Semi-Synthetic Oil: Above 50% comprised of synthetic material

Fully Synthetic Oil: 70% or higher

100% Synthetic Oil: 100% comprised of synthetic material

Should you be looking for 100% Synthetic Oils, Motul’s main lineup is comprised of true 100% synthetic material, with their semi-synthetic line falling under the easily distinguishable Technosynthese line.

So the next time you see oil that is called ‘Fully Synthetic’, ask yourself if it’s really worth the price considering it might not be purely synthetic oil.

2. Changing oil is unnecessary for seldomly used cars

“Ran when parked, changed the oil before leaving it” or so the used car ad says. Like most things in life, motor oil is ultimately a consumable product – it will always have shelf life regardless of whether or not it’s put to use. When oil is not in use, whether it’s synthetic or not, it will build up moisture over time and will eventually mix with the oil. If you listened in science class, oil and water DO NOT mix, and you wouldn’t want that happening inside the engine. Motul Philippines recommends a minimum change oil interval of 1 year for cars that see seldom use, regardless of mileage.

Your service manual may recommend a service interval change of 5000km, but usually there is also a ‘time’ caveat attached to it as well. Do take note as well that oil may have a ‘shorter’ service life relative to mileage locally considering the engine still runs in stop-and-go traffic. 5000km of highway miles is different from 5000km of stop-and-go traffic, the latter may be more stressful for the engine considering engine running hours.

3. Not using your car for a long time will destroy the motor

This is sort of the flipside of the previous myth, and was actually somewhat of a fact back in the 80’s when oil had inferior quality. There would be cases wherein cars that have been left unused would be cranked alive – only to have something inside the engine knock. And believe us, that’s the worst knock knock joke you’d ever want to hear. The cause of this was oil settling at the bottom of the pan completely, leaving all the pistons and cylinders without any lubrication at all. These days oil has come a long way, and with tricks like Motul’s Ester Core technology, the oil now lines all metal surfaces with film that leaves it lubricated even after it has been left alone for a long period of time.

Motul Philippines’ head honcho Carlos Gono has a particular story to share about this:

“I had a friend whose Ford GT who was on the way to ETON when the transmission freeze plug popped out and all the oil came out. He managed to drive it from Skyway-ETON-Skyway-BGC (breakfast) and to Autoplus on the next day. – The transmission only failed 200m from Autoplus after that long distance with 0 oil in the transmission.”

So, while it’s obviously a bad idea to run your vehicle without any oil there’s that bit of insurance in place thanks to advancements in oil technology. These days, so long as you put quality oil in your engine (and transmission), leaving the car alone for long periods of time should be okay.

4. Following recommended oil viscosity in the service manual

With this point, if you don’t know what you’re doing when it comes to specifying oil you’d best follow the service manual for the ideal viscosity. Thing is, there are a few other variables to consider when you’re more meticulous about the health of your engine. For starters, the recommended viscosity in the manual may not account for our tropical climate. If there is a particular recommendation on your car’s service manual for tropical climates, it will likely be a notch higher than the originally recommended viscosity. If not, it’s worth considering to bump up viscosity by one level for added protection. So if say the recommended grade is 5w-30 for four-season climates, 10w-40 may work better for tropical climates where the oil is subject to more heat.

It needs to be said the recommended viscosity might also depend on the year model of your car. In a nutshell, more modern vehicles need thinner oil vs. older cars. Older diesel cars for example have bigger machine gaps/clearances in the engine and they rev really low (i.e. 4000rpm) so you needed thicker viscosity oils for engines like that. Nowadays though Common Rail Direct Injection (CRDI) diesel engines have transitioned a lot and rev much higher so you need a finer oil to reach all of the machine gaps in the engine which are much finer than what they were.

Generally speaking though, Motul Philippines recommends not going below 30 weight oil for our climate. In most high performance motors they tend to avoid putting oils like 0w-20 because it might break down easier with the extremely hot temperatures we’ve been seeing over the summer lately.

5. Not all ‘Synthetic’ oils are created equal

Much like our first point, being called a ‘synthetic oil’ doesn’t instantly guarantee optimum performance. With so many brands out there sprouting up left and right, it’s easy to trip into the pitfall of good marketing and sub-par products. There are plenty of brands that blend oil to minimum standards without staying up to date with specific performance ratings such as API ratings or GL ratings for gear oils and/or transmission/driveline related fluids.

In this case, it pays to do your research on which reputable brands have a good track record in terms of motorsports history as well as investment in R&D and their transparency with such developments. All of these will go a long way in terms of acting as insurance for your vehicle’s system’s health in the long run.

With these common misconceptions put aside, you are now one step closer to knowing what you’re actually putting into your vehicle. Just like our bodies, cars will also stay reliable or deteriorate faster depending on what you put in them – and lubricants and fluids are a key part of that. Cars can be complicated, but in this case knowledge is power.

Words by Aurick Go

Photos by Jaime Miguel Echavez, Jose Altoveros

If you visit the various tuners and shops around Metro Manila, chances are they’ll either be filled with Hondas, Toyotas, Subarus, or even supercars. It’s understandable given they’re the more common platforms to build in the country, and these shops do need to run a business after all. If there’s one shop in town that’s filled with 90’s JDM goodness though, it’s likely DMF Motorsport. Not too familiar? Well, maybe you know the place by its old name, DMF Drift.

Ring a bell now?

DMF is owned and operated by David Feliciano, the man who pioneered the sport locally by tossing his cars sideways during autocross events in the early ’00s’. Aside from the driver, the shop has long since been a staple of the local tuning community having been in the same location on the corner of Boni and Katipunan ever since. Heck, you can even call it an institution already. Just take a look at the stickers on the shop door for some nostalgia.

Since David put up shop in 2003, the place has been through the rise, fall, and the recent re-emergence of professional drifting the country. It’s safe to say there were a good number of competition-spec drift cars that competed in various drift events throughout the years built at this very place.

When you compare other homegrown drift cars to their stable, there’s just something different about how DMF-built cars are built. They’re not just mechanically sound, they have to look good too. The trend with most shops is to make a platform that will be able to take the punishment of professional drifting – with aesthetics and the rest coming second. At DMF Motorsport, that just doesn’t cut it – your car has to look good, and you have to drive in such a way that it’ll stay that way.

The variety of 90’s japanese metal is quite diverse considering a huge portion of them are rear-wheel drive cars. In one corner, you’ll spot a competition-spec S13. Then in front of it, a couple of street-spec S15s. Towards the back, there are a few AE86s together with a 2JZ-swapped owner-type Jeep. Let’s not forget the Pandem-kitted S30 Z that’s been in the shop for a long time as well as DMF’s personal rally cars.

If you notice, most of them are rocking a body kit, wheels with proper fitment, and even a semi-sorted interior. But take a peep under the hood, and they all mean business. Big turbo 2J, competition-spec SR20, 3SGE with ITBs, you name it, and it’s there.

Perhaps the best example of how David builds cars is the DMF school car. The clean A31 Cefiro you see here is DMF’s new drift toy to teach people the basics of going sideways. If I didn’t mention it, you’d probably think it was a client’s build.

It’s rocking a set of R33 wheels and slammed low to the ground. There’s even a full interior; only the driver’s seat has been replaced by a fixed bucket. Under the hood, it packs an SR20 instead of the usual RB-swap. We definitely need to take a better look at this next time.

Even if it’s a school car that will be abused, it has to look good. The same applies to other vehicles in the shop, both his personal and customer builds. To give you a better idea, we’ll be featuring some of the other cars built by DMF Motorsport soon.

There’s a Seafoam Green S13, a red IS, and a white S15… and a certain black IS that’s been missing for quite awhile.

Stay tuned.

Words and Photos by Jose Altoveros

“Cars, in more ways than one, are always compared to the anatomy of the human body.”

A person’s heart is the pump that keeps the body going just like an engine, the ECU serves as the brains that do all the thinking, and oil serves as the blood that keeps everything working as they should. That last point is very important, because without oil our cars will literally grind to a halt. Knowing the quality and specifications of oil you put into your vehicle is very crucial – it is literally your car’s lifeblood.

That said, we figured we’d do our share of spreading proper information about the proper use of oil for all our long-term projects; And what better way to do that than have one of the biggest players in high performance lubricants join our efforts? Say hello to our newest partners here on Street63: Motul Philippines.

With their thrust to push their products to the limit in various disciplines of local motorsport, not to mention the world over, it’s safe to say that Motul Philippines will be able to bring us the proper information we’ll need as far as oils are concerned for our own projects.

Expect to see more oil-related content over the course of 2020, and hopefully you’ll pick up a thing or two with the information Motul Philippines will be sharing with us.

Words by Aurick Go

Photos by Jose Altoveros, Jaime Miguel Echavez

Hondas have a weird way of sticking to people who’ve enjoyed driving them growing up. You’d think that these cars would be best for young guys working their way up and starting their careers, and eventually they’d move up to another platform and forget their front-wheeled roots. Pay enough attention though and you’ll notice an interesting trend with these vehicles: The guys who could afford ‘better’ cars are instead circling back and going all out with their H builds instead. Such is the appeal of nostalgia and the glory days of modification that there are now several builds in town that take these pocket rockets towards another level of quality.

Now armed with deeper pockets and more knowledge, those who can afford a proper Honda now go for the top of the food chain: The Type R. Type Rs have always been on a pedestal as far as the hierarchy of Hondas are concerned. Being the limited, race-oriented version of otherwise pedestrian vehicles, this vividly red R badge has inspired generations of enthusiasts to emulate and extract the true performance potential of the rest of Honda’s lineup. Seeing as Hondas comprise a healthy portion of our local community, original Type R models in town are revered and coveted by many. You’d think though that those who bought these special models would be content with a few choice modifications, but let’s face it: that just doesn’t make for a ‘complete’ Honda ownership experience, does it?

The pair of Type Rs you see here are owned by folks that have been there and done that as far as the aftermarket scene is concerned. Over the years they’ve honed and perfected the art of the build with a healthy sampling of other platforms, yet eventually they went back to their Honda roots; But this time with none of the shady backyard modifications or sub-par parts. Going about a Honda build while making the effort to stand out and be unique can get quite difficult, but if you know your aftermarket there’s always bound to be a different option – as this pair demonstrates.

Our main gripe with your average Honda is the fact that modifying it can get a little bit too ‘cookie cutter’ as far as exterior choices go. It’s almost always predictable to see a Honda with Rota Slipstreams, a scavenger pipe, speedholes, or worse, a deleted rear bumper for “drag reduction”. These cars all end up looking the same and uninspired despite all the aftermarket parts thrown in. On the flipside, there are guys who truly dig into their catalogs, do their research, and pick out certain pieces that make for a unique look. Beyond the textbook Spoon or Mugen pieces, Honda tuning in the late 90’s to early ‘00s have a treasure trove of other parts; And these two Type Rs both took to a much-underrated aero shop for most of their exterior bits: C-West.

This white EK9 Civic Type R has been with JP Pangilinan for the longest time. Being one of those OG builds that’s done its rounds in shows, meets, and funruns alike, the Type R hatch deviates from the typical Type R ensemble with its menacing C-West front bar as well as the Monster Sport CF Bonnet. Out back a Cusco GT Wing is mounted on a custom wing base and makes for a distinct look versus the usual ducktail wing you’d find in this area.

Despite the predominantly C-West theme, this EK is a good example of mixing-and-matching parts from various manufacturers to create a cohesive specimen of a tuned japanese vehicle from the mid-‘00s era. The C-West pieces are then complemented by signature original Desmond Spoon SW388 wheels as well as a Spoon N1 muffler to match the aggressive styling with an aggressive exhaust note.

The semi-stripped interior wraps occupants in a Cusco roll bar matched with a complete Next Miracle Cross Bar set while the occupants are held snugly by Spoon Carbon Kevlar seats. The spoon theme continues with a Spoon steering wheel to point this hatch where it needs to go. A set of Defi BF gauges mounted on the 2-DIN pocket were also the go-to meters for the mid ‘00s, further adding to the popular parts from that era.

As if the exterior isn’t much of a talking point already, one peek underneath the Monster Sport hood gets the conversation flowing much more. Sporting a fully tucked bay healthily displaying a built B20 in all its glory, you could easily tell the extent of work that’s been put into this vehicle throughout the years. Looking into this bay you would think that JP’s done away with amenities like AC or power steering, but you’d be glad to know that this car still has fully functioning creature comforts – with all lines neatly tucked away from sight. The B20 itself has been completely reworked by JP’s shop, Goldstar Turbocharger, from top to bottom, just peep the long spec sheet below.

This silver DC2 Integra Type R on the other hand is a fresh build from a rather familiar face here at Street63. Making for an interesting build to flank his all-original Evo VI TME, Law Go has paid just as much attention to curating this build and gearing it towards a certain look.

The choice of color and the full C-West aero kit for the DC2 were all taken after pieces of C-West’s demo car in their catalog. Sticking to the era-correct theme are a set of gold Advan RG1s, again another detail that gives this Honda further authenticity.

The B18C gets a little bit more lift once VTEC kicks in (yo) by way of TODA Camshafts and Cam gears while more air is fed into the motor thanks to a Spoon throttle body and an Edelbrock Victor X intake manifold. On the other end a Mugen header takes care of hastily moving exhaust gasses to match all the work on the intake side. A Koyo Aluminum Radiator keeps things in check to prevent overheating with all the added performance bits in place. There are plenty of complaints about Honda motors being gutless and lacking torque across the powerband, but this particular DC2 gets around this hurdle by using a Spoon close-ratio transmission for better acceleration and overall response.

The interior has been properly restored with OEM USDM Integra type R parts, and a few choice pieces in there speak volumes about this car’s true worth. If you know the going rates for a Mugen FG360 Steering Wheel and a Mugen Cluster these days, you’d know that they’re probably already worth one decent car on their own. These are then flanked with a pair of Recaro SPG Wildcats, another rare piece in an already-valuable interior.

It’s very easy to follow the trend and stick to off-the-shelf parts especially for a popular manufacturer like Honda. But for those who truly want to perfect their craft and build something different, the road is not as easy as walking up to the shop and checking out with all the parts on hand. Those who take their time to identify, source, and wait for the right parts end up with a car that stands out as the fruit of years of labor and patience – a testament to the dedication that is put into something that otherwise has plenty of temptation to take short cuts with.

Good thing too, because there’s now a couple more Hondas in town to show everyone else how it’s done.

Words by Aurick Go

Photos by Jose Altoveros

Honda Civic Type R (EK9)

Engine and Driveline:

Blue-printed and built B20 Motor by Goldstar Turbocharger

Arias High comp piston

Brian Crower Sportsman Rods

ARP Head Studs

Skung 2 Pro-2 Cams

Skunk 2 Valvetrain

Ported Head and Ported Type R Manifold by Winsport

Golden Eagle Camgear Pro series

Golden Eagle Fuel Rail

Fuel Lab Fuel Regulator

TODA Headers

Jun-themed Valve Cover

Jun Oil Cap

Hasport Engine Mounts

Spoon Baffle Oil Pan

Spoon N1 Muffler with Midpipe

Spoon Throttle

Spoon Hi-Tension Wires

Spoon Radiator Hose

Spoon Reservoir Socks

Spoon Radiator Cap

MSD Coil Pack

Speed Factory Breather Tank

2-Row DC2 Radiator with Fal Fans

Full wire tuck, brake tuck, and aircon tuck by Goldstar Turbocharger

HONDATA tuned by Joel Zapanta / ZAP Tuning

Wheels Brakes and Suspension:

Desmond Regamaster/Spoon SW388 17”

GT Radial SX2

Spoon Brake Calipers

Spoon Rotors

Spoon Brake Lines

Dynamics Circuit Spec Coilover

Spoon Front Strutbar

Hard Race Front Camber kit

Hard Race Toe Kit

Hard Race Rear Camber Kit

ARP Extended wheel Studs

Works Bell Brake Pads

BWR Lower Control Arms

Energy Suspension bushing kit

Cusco Front sway bar

Cusco Rear sway bar

Exterior:

C WEST Fully Body Kit

Cusco wing

Monster Sport Hood

Cusco Hood Pins

Craft Square Mirrors

ARC Winglets

Circuit Hero Tow Hook

Interior:

Spoon Steering Wheel

Spoon Gen 1 Seats

Worksbell Rapfix tilt release

Cusco Shift Light

Cusco Harness

Cusco 6 point roll cage

Next Miracle Crossbar

Defi BF Gauges

EK9 Gauge

Monster Sport Shift Knob

Ktuned Shifter

Circuit Hero Shifter Console

Do Luck Floor Bar

Race Day Battery Box

Cusco Battery Cut Off

Honda Integra Type R (DC2)

Engine and driveline:

B18C Type R engine

Spoon throttle body

Spoon close gear transmission

Toda timing belt

Toda cam gears

Toda camshafts

Aem fuel regulator

Aem fuel rail

Russell braided fuel line

Edelbrock Victor X intake manifold

Custom airbox

Samco radiator hose

Mugen headers

Jun plug cover

Mugen oil cap

Greddy radiator cap

Koyo aluminum radiator

HKS full exhaust

Wheels, Brakes, and Suspension:

Omni racing camber kits

Spoon lower tie bar

Zeal coilovers

Spoon monoblock calipers

Mugen braided brake lines

Advan RG 17×7.5

Exterior:

Oem sunroof

Full C-west Aero Kit

C-West Spoiler

Usdm taillights

Interior:

Mugen Gauge Cluster

Mugen FG360 steering wheel

Mugen shift knob

Recaro SPG wildcat

Alpine 9887 with morel separates

Restoration and proper conversion done by Splitsecond Autoshop

Special thanks to JP of Goldstar Turbocharger for the engine build.

Much as we were ecstatic as we placed an order for the new Civic Type R, my dad and I faced an odd predicament with introducing the new car to our family. Specifically, we had to figure out how we would tell my mother that we were getting a “sports” car without receiving her spiel about impracticality and inconvenience. You see, anything that is performance oriented, considerably fast, and arguably uncomfortable can be deemed a “sports” car to my mom. Truth be told, this isn’t actually the first time we’ve had this problem – we’ve made excuses when we got a 2015 Subaru WRX a few years back too.

So what’s the excuse for the new FK8 Type R? Easy. It’s a limited edition Civic. Considering the facts, it wasn’t too hard to back up that claim. It’s more fuel efficient than our WRX, the ride is comfortable, it seats up to 5 people, and the trunk space is more than enough for groceries to fit. Apart from the car’s wild aerodynamic panels screaming at you every time you look, it’s really just a normal Civic hatchback surrounded with red accents.

Once excused and (sort of) justified, our FK8 Type R finally had the right to sit pretty in the garage. Do take note however that this car is the last thing from a garage queen – it has seen regular action out on track since we got it.

All told, Project FK8 started out with a set of Advan GT’s wrapped in GT Radial SX2s. Downsizing to 18” inch wheels was perfect for our application. Apart from the newfound confidence driving along EDSA and C5’s pothole-riddled lanes, the new set of lightweight wheels allowed us to shave a total of 21.7kg of unsprung weight. The GT Radial SX2 was actually a downgrade from the stock Continental SportContact6. We went with this tire solely for benchmarking purposes, as most local racers use the same tire. Unfortunately, the tire couldn’t keep up with the car’s performance, so the SX2 is now only going to be relegated for street use. To keep the handling of the car at it’s best, a fresh set of Advan A052s will be in charge of racetrack duties. Further enhancements to handling came by way of all the parts you can find in the Cusco catalog for the FK8.

The exterior is kept relatively simple with just some red Honda Access Japan side mirror covers and grill accents. The stock halogen fog lamps have been switched to a more luminous pair of Honda JDM projector fog lamps for better night-time drivability.

What makes this FK8 standout is how purpose-built it is for a daily driven track warrior. You may notice that the front grille doesn’t have the “Type R” badge anymore. That’s because we’ve swapped the stock Type R front grille for a standard Civic sports grill to provide better airflow to the upgraded Koyorad aluminum radiator behind it. Those fake vents near the fog lamps aren’t fake anymore either; Behind those are HKS twin oil coolers custom built with air ducts by Top Racing Hong Kong. I’m sure you’ve noticed the PRL Motorsports intercooler too, a stunning piece with CNC billet aluminum end tanks.

Pop the hood and you’ll find more aftermarket components to get the most out of the K20C Turbo. The Eventuri carbon fiber intake system is not just there for aesthetic purposes. If you’ve done your research you’ll know that the guys at Eventuri mean serious functionality. The fancy aesthetics are just a bonus.

Thermal wrap and adhesives can be seen in almost every component that is either sensitive to heat or producing heat. The charge pipe is wrapped using PTP gold thermal adhesive, while the turbo located below is wrapped using a PTP turbo blanket supplied by United Speed Racing and is custom-fit for the FK8.

Located below the turbo is a United Speed Racing downpipe and a PRL motorsports mid-pipe which as you’ve guessed, is also hugged by thermal exhaust wrap. The only thing left stock for now is the cat-back exhaust, which will soon be swapped out for something aftermarket. All of this is controlled and kept in check using Hondata ECU software. It plays host to features such as flat foot shifting, launch control, and rolling anti-lag.

Yes, this car has launch control and rolling anti-lag: https://youtu.be/79pMU8sJqyI

For a car that’s barely a year old, plenty has already been done to turn our Civic Type R into the best it can be. Despite that, this is only the beginning for Project FK8, and I can guarantee that there is a lot more stuff in-store for this car. Follow us to keep posted on our Civic Type R build!

Words and Photos by Franz Patrick Gaw

After my six-year toxic relationship with a Subaru Impreza WRX, I told myself i’d keep away from AWDs in general. For the most part, our ‘most affordable’ options for turbo AWDs locally would either be skyrocketing Evo prices or dealing with Subaru unreliability for a taste of superior traction and sure-footedness. My jump to building my dream car – a Mazda RX-7 – offered some respite to this. Rear-wheel drive, finicky but reliably built and maintained motor, and overall the ideal build I could make out of it, the RX-7 provided me an experience of a lifetime building and driving it. Yet somehow after all that there’s something amiss.

The thing with the RX-7 is driving the car will always have a small caveat at the back of my mind: “Break it and you’ll have a hard time fixing it.” It’s built to be the best it can be and I drive it enough to give it a good workout, but still there ought to be more fun to be had with a newer, less fussy car. I thought to myself that I didn’t miss the point-and-shoot behavior of a proper all-wheel-drive, and then the opportunity to drive the new GR Yaris came up; All of us know that’s something I’d be utterly stupid to pass on.

Thanks to a very generous friend who got dibs on one unit long before Toyota Motor Philippines is able to bring it in, we were tossed the keys to one of the first few GR Yaris-es in town and pretty much left to our devices for a whole day. This meant picking the car up early at 8am and – very reluctantly – returning it home almost 12 hours later.

After setting off and joining traffic along C5, the Yaris initially makes an impression that would last throughout our day with it. Rowing through first, second, and third, it has all the punchy torque down low that makes it easily useable in traffic. Clearly this bit of the drive should not have been fun considering we couldn’t stretch the Yaris’ legs, but even between all the stop-and-go’s, quick openings, and short weaves through the stretch of C5 the car was easily at home punching in-and-out of traffic. This is certainly quite refreshing compared to a car that builds boost and has it all on the top end.

Traffic domination aside, the GR Yaris is still very civil to live with despite being a 6-speed manual with a rally-bred powertrain. The clutch is reasonably light, the shifter excellently positive, and the steering – while electronically powered – is surprisingly direct and perfectly weighted. All these paired with highly adjustable seating and steering positions all provide the driver with ample means for a proper sporting experience. To get that though, we needed to drive a little bit outside Metro Manila and up the mountains to get a true glimpse of what makes everyone rave about this thing.

Thanks to all the tech and engineering that went into this homologation special, the GR Yaris has plenty of talking points, and we’ll touch base on each one from a driver’s perspective. Primarily though, Gazoo Racing prides itself on the AWD system they’ve put on the GR Yaris. Able to split torque depending on the drivers’ preference, the GR Yaris can alter its behavior from being a true stable AWD to something with a livelier rear end. That said, each driving mode alters the experience in noticeable yet very minute ways – all mostly felt once you chuck the car into a corner. Sport mode with the 30:70 rear wheel biased split is perhaps the most preferred choice for spirited mountain driving as it makes the rear feel like it’s easier to rotate on tighter bends, at least that’s how I felt as the rear suspension digs into the pavement once you load it up with weight. Normal mode provides a 60:40 front bias split, making this the more reasonable day-to-day mode. I reckon this mode will lean more towards textbook AWD understeering, but considering this isn’t our car we didn’t bother finding out for sure. Track mode splits torque 50:50 evenly, allowing for optimal grip from all four tires. This wasn’t a mode I tried touching upon since, well, we didn’t go to the track. Perhaps on another day.

We can’t talk about the GR Yaris and not talk about its elephant in the room – the 1.6L three cylinder motor. While the number of cylinders seems like a downside, on the performance side of things it’s really anything but. The G16E-GTS itself has seen a plethora of development based off Toyota’s modular TNGA engine platform, and while I can bore you with all the details, you’d ought to watch the engineers explain instead. That plus the ball bearing turbo and less turbulent exhaust port flow characteristics of a three cylinder has given superb response down low for the GR Yaris such that it has become the hallmark and takeaway of most people who have driven the car. 260HP out of a three cylinder, but all of it is easily on tap even on the tight streets of Manila. I’m definitely not complaining.

Although there is one thing I could pick on: the GR Yaris is too quiet. On one hand it’s something to appreciate for the more civil folk, but on the other it lacks a bit of excitement in terms of driver engagement. Thing is, when you put an exhaust on a three cylinder it sounds – as a friend would put it – like a wet fart. Not particularly pleasant, but perhaps the aftermarket will come out with a recipe that would at least make it tolerable. Surely a proper exhaust system would be top of list when it comes to modifying this.

The suspension end of things are what you’d expect out of a high performance vehicle such as this: it’s pretty stiff. Damping is good overall, and feedback positively translates to the body instead of bottoming out like cheap coilovers do. But then the overall ride is one tad too stiff for our rutted roads. They’re perfect when it comes to outright performance, but it seems it may become a chore to live with on a day-to-day basis. On this side of things, perhaps a proper set of high end suspension with digressive damping tech ought to neutralize the small ruts and bumps while maintaining proper posture for spirited use.

Perhaps the greatest piece of the GR Yaris for me is its slightly overkill braking system. Fixed monoblock 4-pot Advics Calipers with 356mm rotors up front and 2-pot calipers with 290mm rotors out back anchor the 1280kg body so freaking well. Feedback on the brakes is great, with ABS being minimally intrusive. It is this kind of setup that i’ve missed out on during the days I ran a Subaru, and thanks to these brakes the AWD experience has truly become confidence inspiring – late braking and all.

Wheels and tires that came with this car were a set of BBS forged wheels wrapped in a set of Michelin Pilot Sport 4S. These are definitely expensive kit for an OEM piece, and were very much adequate with keeping grip in check as we put the car through its paces. The aftermarket has discovered however that you could easily fit 18×9.5 or 10s inside the wheel arches wrapped with 265 series rubber – this ought to give local guys a lot of options when it comes to playing dress up with wheels.

Out on the road the Yaris is – funnily enough – not so special in the eyes of the masses. I’d like to think everybody sees it as some sort of widebody Wigo; A car that, for all accounts, is at the bottom of the food chain when it comes to squeezing into traffic. This isn’t necessarily a bad thing, but the car itself does not lend itself to any kind of ‘status’ amidst a sea of cars. It is after all ‘just a Yaris’ to the untrained eye. It’s very low key, so perhaps there is some surprise to be had once you build a couple car lengths against that guy who muscled his way into your space at the lights.

It’s safe to say i’ve been left with a lasting impression of the GR Yaris. I feel that it is possibly the most engaging hot hatch we could get locally available brand new, and that’s high praise for a car that falls in a segment full of high performance options. There is nothing like it that punches through first to third in such fluid succession that can still be civilized enough for street use yet still be engaging and fun to drive on a daily basis. Trust that i’ve been racking my brain the past few days thinking of how I could get my hands on one – that much is all I could say about just how good this car is.

Words and Photos by Aurick Go